Red Centre and beyond

Saturday, May 31, 2014

REACHING THE TOP END



28th May Wednesday
Set out on the leg to Katherine after our morning dip in the springs. These were found by enlisted men during WWII, it was enlarged, then the officers deigned it Officer Use Only. It has been edged with a timber material, a nice sitting platform all round, and it still has it's lovely white sandy bottom. The water is so crystal clear and a very comfortable 34.c. The small wallabies were around again this morning before we left. It was only a short trip up the highway, so there was plenty of time in the afternoon to go back in to town, book a canoe for tomorrow morning and catch up with a little grocery shopping. Very hot and humid, so we had ourselves a lovely swim in Park pool, before enjoying happy hour at the bistro. Alarm is set for 6am, to be at the Gorge by 8am for our self guided tour up the first gorge

Oh! Nearly forgot State of Origin tonite, I say go the blues, Don is for the Maroons. 

29th May Thursday
What a shame !!! NSW WON THE MATCH.  

Our canoe trip was fun, we opted for a double, me in the front "doing all the paddling???" and  Don in the back steering. It was really not quite that way, but half way up the gorge my arms felt like it. A tranquil paddle at our own pace to the sandy beach at end of that gorge, lovely swim in the cool water, and back to base. There are crocs in the river, freshwater ones and we were assured they only grow to 3feet and don't attack, only if you annoy them. We didn't see any on our trip, I wasn't disappointed but Don was, he wanted to spot one, even if it was only a small one.  The only thing to spoil the day, hundreds and hundreds of bats at the landing area for cruise boats and canoes. They stink, make a mess, are noises and very destructive, the attendant said "but they were there first" so I'm guessing no effort will be made to move them along. 


Friday 30th May
Our last leg up to Darwin today,a reasonable drive, passing through Pine Creek, (where the turn off is to Kakadu) Adelaide River and finally the outlying surrounds of Darwin. The vegetation was changing, more and more palm trees the closer we were to Darwin.  Signs to WWII airfields along the way, one was running along side the highway. I had no idea what was involved in the defence of Darwin when the japs attacked, it is a big eye opener to visit here.  We are staying at Howard Springs about 20ks south of the city. It is an oasis of palms,  very large and THE BEST amenities block EVER. Instead of rows of showers and rows of toilets, the shower and toilet have been combined into ensuite, rows of them and no Men and no Ladies, all unisex.  It all makes so much sense

It is very humid, the neighbour next door lent us a large fan for afternoon and night, otherwise I think I'd have dissolved into a puddle of perspiration



31st  May Saturday
First things first, off to Bunnings to buy a fan.  The biggest 46cm 5 blade one seemed like the right decision, and it's fan...tastic. The morning was spent in the city precinct, going round and round looking for a parking spot, giving up and driving out to Cullen Bay. Very impressive, man-engineered from a swampy area, lots and lots rocks to make retaining walls, build a lock because of the 8m. High tides in this part of the world.  Eateries and apartment blocks, pleasure boats of every size, type and price.  Yummy fish and chips for lunch, then we spied the "hop on hop off" red double decker bus, spent a while chasing down where we could board it. Finally on the top deck and a 90 minute tour of the city. Hopped off at the WWII Defence Museum (which we intended to do tomorrow) and back on to continue the journey to base. Was very interesting with a good commentary along the way. Saw and heard things we would have missed by ourselves

By the way, the fan works a beauty. Carted my camera, ipad and iphone round all day, but didnt find a single thing wanted to take photo off.  Sure there will be more photos further along the way.


Tuesday, May 27, 2014

PHOTOS



















FROM ULURU TO ALICE SPRINGS AND UP THE HIGHWAY TO MATARANKA

18th May Sunday
Today was THE DAY for a camel ride. Ventured out to the camel farm intending to just have a look see , but it got the better of me. I have wanted to have a camel ride for years and years. Don said no way for him but when came time to part with the money he said "why not". So of we went. Not as intimidating as expected, quite a calm soothing sway. Fun cameleer named Sam who answered my 101 questions, lead our small string of camels.   All in all a fabulous afternoon. 

19th May Monday
We left today for Kings Canyon, arriving in time for lunch and an afternoon trip out to the canyon. Very pricey place to stay, has been the dearest so far, $22.50 per head. Amenities were ok but food and drinks were over the top re $'s.  $17.50 for a glass of wine and a stubby. Didn't take the walk around the canyon rim as it was a very hectic climb to the top and around 4 - 5 hour walk, instead opted for the relatively easier walk through the canyon gorge.  Lots and lots of ghost gums silhouetted against the incredible red canyon walls. The battery in my camera was empty, but I was lucky had the iPhone in my pocket so was still able to photograph lots and lots of beautiful scenes. We only stayed the one night here, as once we'd taken the walk thru the canyon there wasn't anything else for us to see

20th  May Tuesday
Drove Back out to the Sturt highway and headed north today.  Went as far as Finke River rest area, where we joined 16 or so other overnite campers. The river was dry as to be expected out here but it was a pleasant walk down to the river bed. Boy it's a wide river when full, lots of lovely stones making up the river bed.  Don had a small fire going for us to sit by, taking our usual afternoon drink. Night and dark come early, an early night was the best idea, to ready ourselves for out stay in Alice. 

21st May Wednesday  
Arriving in Alice Springs,  we completely missed the small signs indicating the caravan parks at southern end of town, and had to find somewhere to park the rig in town so we could ask where the parks where.  We ended up staying at the Big 4 Macdonald Range caravan park for 4 nites.

22nd May thursday
. It started to rain overnite and continued into the day, so a tourist day was decided upon. Browsed around Todd Mall checking out the many art galleries selling aborigine art. There sure is plenty of galleries and pieces of art of all shapes and sizes. Makes you wonder just how many pieces are sold. Dinner at the local RSL Club, very nice relaxing meal, in out of the heat. 
It's a well set out town, plenty of ghost gums and signs, they just forgot a sign to tell us how to get back on the main road when leaving our park to head into town.  The indigenous are evident everywhere, shuffling along the road in no particular hurry, meandering  thru parks and gullies, sitting crossed legged anywhere they can park their bum and on and on it goes. They seem aimless and fill their day in either walking or sitting around. Very depressing to see. 

23rd May Friday
Today was visiting the West Macdonald Range. Started at the furthest gorge, Glen Helen Gorge, it was disappointing, nothing much there, couldn't get into the gorge.  Soo off we went back towards the Ormiston Gorge - it is absolutely spectacular. No wonder a lot of calendars use photos of this site. Next back down the road was Ellery Creek Big Hole and again well worth the visit. These two were only a short easy walk as well. The next one on our list was Standley Chasm, a bit of a walk, but not too bad as it's all in the shade as you enter further and further into the Chasm. At last reached the end, pity we didn't get there earlier when the sun hits the walls of the chasm, but nevertheless it was still special.  I mustn't forget the strawberry pancakes available at the park. Finished off a great day.

24th May  SATURDAY
We went back out towards the east mac ranges today to visit Alice Springs Red Centre Park. This was a very enjoyable experience, especially the bird show. Trained magpie, falcons, kites, curlew, owls and desert spinifex pigeions. So well trained, it proved worth every dollar it cost to enter the park. Also a Nocturnal exhibition where I finally saw a Billby, banicoot and a bettong  Plus heaps of other nocturnal animals.  I suggested we visit the Gillen Club for our evening meal.  It was packed. Every man and his dog was there, talk about a popular spot  Had to wait ages on a line to place our order, then Don thought our meal would never be ready. Enjoyable meal, very cheap and drinks. I nearly forgot, after lunch we visited the Road Transport Museum.  What a huge collection of trucks and memorabilia re transport, you could spend days and days there before you had even touched on a half of it.  Met a nice couple who are travelling with a Kara Kamper. Both of us fell in love with it, just perfect. Not too large everything one could want and a decent price. Maybe????

25th May Sunday
Time to leave Alice and head further north.  On our way out of town stopped off at the Old Telegraph Station  A lovely setting on the bank of the "current" dry Todd River. Great place for a picnic. Stopped overnite at Taylor's Creek, a very popular free camp.  About a dozen or so other campers there. 

26th May Monday
Heading up north, we passed through Barrow Creek, Whycliffe Wells, Wauchope and Tennant Creek.  Just before Tennant Creek is the Devils Marbles.  There are "marbles" for miles and miles around the site, but the ones nearest the road are the most spectacular.  Of course, took lots of photos.   Unfortunately had to stop at Tennant creek for bread ( lunch) couldn't get out fast enough. A real indigenous town,  whiteys stand out like sore thumbs.  Lunch down the road at another old telegraph station, then on the road again heading north. I know it sounds mad, but we have been climbing up and up the further we go north. Must be something to do with the shape of the world???????! I know I'm being silly, but that's what it felt like. Rennet Springs for the night, not bad as roadhouses go, but not too keen on the cane toads everywhere when went for a midnight walk to the amenities.  

27th May Tuesday. 
Boy! I've finally caught up to today. No service and just enjoying ourselves, the journal was on the back burner for a couple of days. Still heading north, morning tea  at Dunmarra, then lunch at Daly Waters Pub. Caravans pulling in for the nite starting at midday, making sure they get a spot. We didn't linger there, pushed further on so we could hit Mataranka in time for an afternoon dip in the thermal spring.  On our way north we are now seeing lots and lots of signs for WWII aerodromes and a WWII Hospital. It's not until you are out here do you realise just where and what the ramifications and fears were of the Japs landing on our shores in the II WORLD WAR. So much was kept from the population, as on a need to know basis, and we just didn't know.  Had our afternoon dip, sitting here outside with our drinks and nibbles and the campground peacocks. Lovely. Will have another dip before heading off in the morning for Katherine. 

Sitting outside in the last light of the day, the small wallabies come around the camp for a tidbit.  I know its not the right thing to do, but I just gave this mummy wallaby a tiny tiny piece of bread.  Wow, it came right up to me, such a tiny delicate animal, plus there was a tiny skinny tail hanging out of the pouch.

Will be adding photos separately of these last couple of days

Saturday, May 17, 2014

ULURU

Kata Tjuta  taken the day before 




SATURDAY 17TH MAY

There's not a lot to say, I'll let the photos say it for me.  Uluru is imposing in size and majestic from whichever angle you look at it  These are just a few of the many many photos I took yesterday 
Uluru

Two grey nomads at Uluru









SUNDAY 18TH MAY

A rest day today before we head off tomorrow for Kings Canyon.  Will be wandering over to the Camel Farm this afternoon.  Will add some photos I hope to take of these funny creatures. 
Don's camel, Bonnie - 12 years old






Buddy,the camel I rode, 15 years old

 

Don and Sam, our cameleer

Milkshake, only 18 months old

COOBER PEDY TO YALARA

Wednesday  14th May

Leaving Coober Pedy , we turned right towards the S.A./N.T. Border .  Up the Sturt Highway but not far out of Coober Pedy we crossed the dingo fence for  the 3rd time and the mulllock heaps and opal mines were both sides of highway for approx 40 Kms. It resembles a moon scape or something out of a sci-fi movie.  We didn't stay long at any of the rest areas, just pushed for the red centre. Last time in this neck of the woods, Erldunda was a basic roadhouse plus vacant block next door to park your van over night. Wow has it changed. Now a luxurious oasis, aptly named desert oasis motel and caravan park.  Nice stop but the water stank of sulphur.


Thursday 15th May

So, next morning it was the 200 odd ks to Yalara, arriving at the same time as heaps of other travellers. The campground is very large, lots of vans but still room for more. Because it was so stinking hot after lunch, wandered over to the shop area at the resort, poked my nose into a gift store and to cuta long story short, ended up with an appointment for Friday with the Resort 
Gallery and Gift Shop Manager.  The discussion was re my pit fired natural/organic pendants, plus other pottery.  Took ourselves up to the lookout to
watch the sun set on Uluru and the Olgas, not the best sunset as was very cloudy.

Friday 16th May

First up the meeting with Resort Gallery Manager (was  good omen, her name is Terese) and she left me speechless when said would take the lot  (nearly 40) was expecting maybe half a dozen. The rest of meeting based around supplying more pottery - theme and colour based towards the red centre. My mind is in overdrive. I was so overwhelmed my legs were shaking. Delivery tomorrow.


  But I'm forgetting Don was up early and watched the sunrise on Uluru. Now back to the order of the day.  we took our lunch and headed out to the Olgas (Kata Tjuta).  for the afternoon. Planned on two walks but after hiking up Walpa Gorge and back called it quits for the day.  So that was it for Friday only thing left to do was sit under the awning and sip our wine. Boy life's hard.


Walpa Gorge, Kata Tjuta

beautiful red sand dune

Sturt Desert Peas, growing around the Yalara Resort grounds

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

HEADING WEST FROM THE FLINDERS RANGES

en route to Coober Pedy




view from top lookout 

demonstration of a blower

a section of wall underground house

a few underground houses

another view approaching Coober
SUNDAY 11th  MAY. - Mothers Day

Leaving the Flinders Ranges National Park behind, we head north up the Oodnadatta Track thru Leigh Creek (which is a new town in place of the old one where there is an immense open cut coal mine now), Lyndhurst and Marree where we spent the night. A few stops on the way, one to have a yarn with Talc Alf (an eccentric old guy who sculpts and carves using blocks of local talc), anda detour to see the ochre cliffs. Quite a breathtaking sight, the colours were brilliant. The "track" is not too bad, although very corrugated at approach and leaving the flood ways. And there is tons of these flood ways. Marree is a basic little outback town, not much to see. There was a couple of old engines rusting away at Marree of the now defunct Ghana Rail, which follows the track from Leigh Creek to Alice.  Couple of other travellers asked us to join them for a drink, their origins Wyong and now living out at Norah Head. Small world ( for those who don't know these towns are in the area used to live and my daughter Therese is still in the area).  Nearly forgot another stop was to visit historic Farina, once a bustling outback town where a group of locals are gradually and partially restoring some of the buildings in the town. They have already restored the old underground bakery and use it in conjunction with a cafe/information tent.  Well worth the stop.

MONDAY 12th MAY

Last night we enjoyed a few drinks around a roaring fire (old rail sleepers make a terrific fire) and a chat with our neighbours. This morning its off again up the Track this time our destination William Creek. A 4.5hour drive to travel 204ks.  This section of the track has been very slow going, extremely corrugated in places making it very difficult to drive much more than 40-50ks an hour.  Stopped at a viewing area where the bottom of Lake Eyre South nearly touches the road. Just looking  at this you wonder just how vast the big lake must be.  Further along we marvelled at the salt pans and the beautiful red coloured sand dunes with their red coloured sand pans in between. It was the best part of today's trip.  Petrol is getting dearer, the last fill at $2.00 a litre and expect now in the red centre it will continue to increase.  The thing we both commented on is the lack of wild life (it's been non existent since leaving the Flinders) not many head of cattle either. The old Ghana rail continues to keep up with us, in places no rail lines or sleepers, they are used everywhere to build fences, toilet blocks and everything else you can think of. 

Oh! I forgot to mention the flies.  They try to cluster in your ears.
ARGGHHH.  I HATE THEM

  

DRIVING THRU PARACHILNA GORGE


Talc Alf's setup



/the Ochre Cliffs

Farina ruins and the bakery shed in the b ackground

Marree's cafe 

The Dog Fence

Old Ghan Rail 

Red sand dunes and sand flats

another red sand dune and basin, this time with water

Our first view of Coober Pedy

TUESDAY 13TH MAY

Wow, what a different section of the track today from William Creek  to Coober Pedy.  No  wild rough
floodways with heaps of corrugations.   It was a lovely drive.  Plenty of red sand dunes, the odd cow, no other wild life though.  We crossed the dingo fence again just before we  reached Coober,  I find this town very depressing, it has no visual appeal.  Lots of scrap metal in yards, half the shops are dirty and dingy or closed.  We took a self conducted tour of a Opal Mine and underground house this afternoon, did the whole tourist thing in one go.  Even the high lookout in town is closed.   Lost part of the fitting for our water tank today, lost all the water in it.  Don, the handyman was able to fix it, thank goodness. Probably take a drive out to Breakaway mtns in the morning before we leave, otherwise shall just  hit the road again, this time heading north towards Ulluru.  Oh by the way, here is a photo  taken of the  inside of van after travelling on the very bad section of the track.

after the bad section of the Track