LEAVING FREMANTLE

30th June
Left reasonably early this morning. Drove through magnificent forests of Karri, Jarrah and Marri before arriving at Pemberton. The forests gave way at places to green rolling hills. A nice change again from red sandy soil. We wanted to include in our day, before we reached Denmark, the Giant Tree Top Walk, high above the floor of giant Tingle trees that reach heights of 70 metres. Very impressive, even if the walk spans swayed a little.  Part of the tour was a walk around the forest floor, here we saw the Tingle trees where the middle had been burnt out, but the tree keeps growing. They call the roots of these trees, toes, and they did sorta kinda look like toes. Leaving there we headed for a lovely camp in Denmark, very tranquil and rural. Only one night, leaving in the morning

1st July. 
Before heading up to Borden for our next night, we back tracked 13ks to Elephants Rocks and Greens Pool. The rocks were a disappointment, the tide was in and couldn't access the beach to get the correct aspect. But Greens Pool blew me away. Crystal clear turquoise water, waves, rocks and white sandy beach. It made up for Elephant Rocks. Denmark is a very lovely town, out of all the towns we have passed thru, if I was going to move to W.A. It would be my pick. Our overnight was at a freeby in Borden, on its way to emptiness but for the huge grain silos filling road trains. Very noisey but it did stop overnite. There was a lovely flowering gums beside the van, took too many photos, as usual

2nd July.
Wheat fields along side of the road, both sides as far as the eye could see. 
Driving along Tin Horse Highway, every property had assembled a tin horse, all different, then placed them beside front boundary fence on the highway. Very different and enjoyable  It has rained since waking this morning, all the way up to Hyden. Will visit Wave Rock when it stops raining.  It did stop after we settled in, so off we go to visit Wave Rock. Let's take our umbrellas just in case. The wave is not as long or high as expected, but nevertheless impressive. Don suggested we walk over to the steps and climb up on top.  Not a hard climb, not much to really see, except the scene around at ground level. BUT just as well we took the umbrellas, because it started to drizzle, no problem, we kept walking. The rain increased, but we still kept going, until it was torrential. I said this is madness, where are we going?  So we turned around to go back, the rain kept increasing, wind became stronger, I was battling to hold the umbrella from blowing inside out to keep my camera dry, plus stay upright. Couldn't see where I was going as had the brolly very low.  By the time we reached the steps to climb down, I was drenched. You guessed it, as we reached the bottom step, the rain stopped and the sun came out. Squelch, squelch back to the van which  ended up looking like a Chinese laundry with wet clothes hanging everywhere. 

3rd July. 
More wheat fields today. 
From Wave Rock and Hyden we turned north again, heading eventually up to the Great Eastern Highway. An uneventful day driving along minor roads, hardly a vehicle going either way. Because of all the wet clothes stopped in Meredin to find a laundromat. Directed to one which turned out to be a commercial laundry, the guy there was great. Used the large commercial washing machine and dryer, and all he asked was $10 to buy a few tinnies. What a top fella. Spent the night at another free rest stop, Karalee Rocks. In 1895 early gold prospectors built a flume to take the rain running off the rocks to a dam that was also built by them. To funnel the water huge slabs of rock were used to build walls strategically. Plus the flume was made using sheets of metal curved and riveted together to make a half circle shape. It's amazing what these early people could do and with what. 

4th July
Our trip today took us east towards Kalgoorlie, the water pipeline from Perth following the highway. Not a lot to see as far as scenery goes , not like the past couple of days. Passed through what would have been small towns, now ramshackle deserted buildings. Stopped at Coolgardie, it is just a shadow of the big town it was. Actually in its hey day was the third largest town. Found our caravan park, left the van and headed out for a looksie. Up at the Super Pit Lookout we were lucky to coincide with a blast. The pit is not just big, it's HUGE.  Haircut this afternoon to try rectify the cut I had in Kununnura. It's still a weird cut, hoping next cut will be back in Barraba. After a drive thru city centre Boulder and Kalgoorlie, Don has had enough, doesn't like the park,  so we head out to Norseman tomorrow. It feels as though he doesn't like large towns or caravan parks, prefers small or rest areas.

5th July
So it's off again, towing the van behind us, first stop Norsement for lunch, turn left onto Eyre Highway to cross the Nullarbor.  Fraser Range Sheep Station was our choice for the night, recommended by other grey nomads.  Rather informal,
huge pit fire to gather around.  It was a chance to sip a wine and catch up with other travellers.  

6th July
The Highway across the plains is bordered by heavy undergrowth and trees, which is surprising, one thinks it would be barren on both sides.  We try to stay alternate nights in caravan park then a free rest area.  Moodini Rocks Rest Area
is our choice for tonight.  Love the rest stops where we can have a camp fire.
This stop was not over crowded, we found a spot away from the road, trying to keep the noise of trucks distant.  

7th July
Back on the road again, heading to the area which is actually the Nullarbour Plains.   Stopped at the lookout to see ............drove down to the valley floor  Further on the vegetation disappeared, nothing to see, as far as the horizon. Heaps of traffic heading both ways, plenty of roadtrains, and most of the caravans heading back towards Perth.  Needed to stay another night out here, so chose the Nullarbor Roadhouse.  The caravan sites were just a tap and electricity pole in the middle of barren block.  We thought we would be the only ones there, by dark surprised to find about another dozen or so camped for the night.  It's lovely to stay where there is an amenity block, lovely hot shower, $1 for 5 minutes.  It is surprising how long 5 minutes lasts under the shower.

8th July
We heard about the whale watching at The Head of the Bight.  It was a detour about 12ks from the highway.   Our saying is "we're not coming back tomorrow", a quick decision and we turned towards the coast. Cold, overcast day, windy as all get out, we struggled down towards the lookouts perched on cliff.  We had been told there would be plenty of whales to see, I was a little sceptical, it was amazing to see plenty of whales, some with calves, some just blowing or just cruising along.  We stayed there in the cold, me trying to capture photos at just the right minute when a whale surfaced.  Have some heavy editing and deleting to do when we get home.  The border was coming up today, for lunch we ate the fruit and finished the tomatoes.  All they were interested in was the lonely orange we had left, ignored the spuds and onions. A long day of driving today for Don, it started to blow and rain and didn't let up at all.  Eventually after dark we arrived at our choice for the night.  Another rest stop, this one at Kyancutta, a very very small town, the park besides the "Everthing" General Store.