Red Centre and beyond

Sunday, June 22, 2014

CATCH UP TO TODAY


Thursday 5th June  
Our first sight of boab trees.  As the song says - "On the road again"  passing thru Timber Creek, Victoria River, then our destination Kununnura.  Before we reached Kununnura passed over the border into W.A, so we sat next to quarantine gates and ate lunch, eating all our fruit and veggies, After a reasonable drive time settled down in lovely park overlooking the Ord River  system. I forgot to mention passing over the border, you put your clock back 1 and a half hours, so arriving at 2 o'clock, it was really only noon W.A. time

Friday 6th June
Drove out to  Wyndham in the morning, taking in the sights along the way, took in the view from lookout over town and delta where 5 rivers converge there at Wyndham. Very impressive sight. Returning back to town turned off to see The Grotto, but when we realised it was 140 steps down and 140 steps back, declined the view and returned back to car. Managed to get my hair butchered, I know I have a fantastic hairdresser, Emily in Barraba, but this just confirms it. Oh well, at least it will grow and probably take 2 months instead of the usual one month. Watched the sunset, but not very impressive, have seen better.

Saturday 7th June
Packed up the van again, set out for Hayes Creek, along the way, watching the magnificent mountain ranges of the Kimberley's. Never fails to amaze us the different rock and mountain formations we have passed thru    We have been side tracked into a camp for 2 nights, tomorrow will drive the 2 hours out to the Bungle Bungles.

Sunday 8th June
Up early for the drive out to Bungle Bungles. What a shitty 58ks. Winding, water crossings, corrugated, up and down, meeting other cars at the worst time coming the other way. From the visitor info centre it was another 28ks to the parking spot. Thank goodness the track wasn't as bad. The b b are amazing like nothing else I've seen. I have flown over in a lite plane 12 years ago, but you have to get down on the ground to appreciate them. We took the walk around the domes and then onto Cathedral Gorge.  WOW IT WAS MAGNIFICIENT.

Monday 9th June.
Left  early morning, passing thru Halls Creek, before stopping at a fab rest area we'd been told about, named Mary Pool, on the Mary River. Although only lunch time there were heaps of vans already set up, a lot staying for days I'd imagine. It would be a nice spot to kick back for a rest. But on we drove and ended our day at Fitzroy Crossing. Huge river, lots of our "friends", great camp ground at Fitzroy Crossing Lodge. Afternoon 5'ies were very expensive at the Lodge, so couldn't indulge too much

Tuesday 10th June
Today we continued on towards Broome, first detouring to Derby, where there is a very high long jetty, the reason because of the king tides up north. Visited the Boab Prison tree, used ages ago to lock up the aborigines for the night, when taking them over to Broome to dive for the pearling Luggers. Forced labour. Didn't stay long in Derby, back on the road towards Broome. After discussion it was decided to stay a little out of town at Roebuck Roadhouse.  Last time I visited all the caravan parks in town were full and we ended up in the overflow grounds, so we didn't want to chance that happening again. Nice camping area, but Oh! Boy! Was the roadhouse a little gold mine. It seemed like all the road trains pulled in to fill up with both petrol and food at all times of the day and night. It was a never ending stream of very big rigs.

Wednesday 11th June
Our day out to do the tourist thing in Broome.  We visited China town, Roebuck  Bay, Cable Beach and the Export Pier. So many new buildings in China Town, it has lost the 'old pearling town' feel and charm. To say I was disappointed, would be true.  Roebuck Bay is still beautiful, aqua water, blue blue sky, and goldeney red sand, the only thing marring it is the mangrove trees growing along the shoreline.  Cable Beach was busy as usual, lots of bodies in the surf and laying on the sand, didn't visit the northern end (which is the nude beach area), and the thing I did notice was all the new resorts and apartment complexes now dotted everywhere in Broome. We enjoyed our walk out along the pier, long long pier, lots of fishermen, and moored at the end, was the National Geographic research vessel - Orion.  Last thing before we returned to camp was book an all-day trip out to the Horizontal Falls, flying in a Cessna 310

Thursday 12th June
A very early start today, up at 5am so we would be at the Visitor Information Centre for a 6.30am pick up for our flight. My first thought when meeting our pilot was "you're too young to be a pilot, looked to me as though he had just left high school.  Fred, as he was called, was an enchanting young man, and co-incidentally had been trained as a pilot in Port Macquarie by a friends son. Jamie owned the training school and his dad was a friend of Rays.  Actually his mum and dad were our companions on our trip round Australia before Ray become ill.  It was a fabulous day, our party consisted of 16 people, divided up into 4 planes, 4 take offs and 4 landings. First flying over Horizontal 
Falls, then landing at Cape Levique for breakfast plus a swim in the ocean if we so desired. Too windy for the swim, water too cold, shame because Don and I lugged our swimmers and towels all day in expectation of that swim. Next stop was only a 3 minute flight in the plane to Cygnet Bay, a pearling farm, where we were given a tour, educational talk on pearls in general, plus the history of pearling and that particular organisation. Also had the chance to handle strings of pearls valued at $6,000.00 to $7,750.00, a Single pearl valued at $3,000.00 , then treated to a fantastic lunch. By this time everyone was rather full and the thought of more food was not eagerly looked for.  But the show must go on, and on we went for another flight, 20minutes this time, landing at Beagle Bay for afternoon tea and a visit to the Sacred Heart Church, where the 3 altars are adorned with pearl and cowrie shells. In fact the entire church is decorated with shells, the shells being an integral part of the church.  Although not hungry everyone graciously  accepted afternoon tea which had been prepared by the local community. I forgot to mention, with the exception of Broome, all of the other 3 landing strips were red sandy dirt. All in all a very enjoyable experience, One we were glad we decided to do

Friday, Saturday, Sunday - 13, 14 and 15th June
Putting Broome behind us we turned south for the short drive to Barn Hill Station Stay. Here we really kicked back and rested for 3 nights, 2 days  doing nothing more strenuous than reading, eating and sleeping, with the exception being one very long walk along the beach. This camp is a short 200 metre walk to the cliff top with the most spectacular beach and cliffs below. Extremely rich red rocks and cliffs, it was hard not to pick up every interesting shell and rock I found (did collect a few I admit).  The amenities here were interesting, very rustic corrugated iron walls and doors, sometimes no roof just the open sky. It is a popular spot for W.A. couples, especially if they enjoy fishing. They spend 6 to 7 months from April on every year, some coming every year for the last 13 years. It's a tight little community of the regulars with a scattering of tourist spending a few days to a week. Participated in their Sunday morning market, displaying my ceramic jewellery, only sold 2 bird brooches. It felt if your not part of their community, You don't rate a glance. Their loss, not my problem. In spite of that one small hitch during our time there, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay, but tomorrow we pack up again and head further south

Monday 16th June
Our plans for today is to drive as far as De Grey rest area.  Numerous travellers have mentioned it and stressed not to miss it. So here we are, having passed Sandfire and Pardoo Roadhouses before stopping for the day. Again another lovely stop, this time caravans everywhere along the river. Toilets are back near the road, so it's a rather long drive back there, or do what everyone else does (dense bush enveloping  the camp). Oh! A bit of excitement a dozen Brahman cattle have joined us for an afternoon drink.  Not unsettled by all the goings on, it is possible an afternoon ritual to come down to the river for a drink.


Tuesday 17th  June
Not a lot happened today other than driving further south. Stopped for the night at a really beaut rest area on the  Peawah River.  Sometimes travellers in these rest areas keep to themselves, but to kick it off this night Don  and this other chap were getting along famously and others joined in. Sitting around a camp table near a blazing fire swapping jokes, travel experiences and where the best spots to stay are. Oh! And where the sand flies are biting. Because of this last little item, it was decided by us (me really) that we would miss Exmouth and the Ningaloo Reef as the little blighters were thick onto you as soon as you stepped out of the car.


Wednesday 18th June
On our way towards Karratha we drove through Roebourne and stopped off at the old prison museum. Bought a super duper mossie and sandfly cream was told about last night round the campfire. It works on mossie bites to stop the itches and is reported to act as a preventative as well. Not in a hurry to try that out yet. It was decided that we would arrive in Karratha as the 2nd State of Origin was on that night. Karratha is a lovely town, lots and lots of new housing and big houses as well. Very well laid out and heaps of new work taking place everywhere we looked.  Lots of money in this town, real estate was ridiculously high. Our first priority was an oil change for the FJ and that done we headed out towards Dampier  and the Burrap  Peninsular where the North West Gas Shelf Visitor Centre is located (right in sight of the gas plant and harbour where the huge ships dock to fill up with liquid gas, which is shipped off to Japan as our largest buyer). A very interesting place and information not normally one would come across.    Not to forget the night out at the local tavern to watch NSW beat Queensland and win state of origin again. Go the blues.

Thursday 19th June
Now we are heading towards Carnarvon, not in a great hurry so stopped off for the night at another rest area. This one was huge and expected it would be very popular,  a good number over night not as many as other stops. Had a camp fire again. Over the time we've been travelling and stopping in these rest areas over night, we have met some very queer sorts. I must admit some are OK and we've enjoyed a chat, but others, are just looney.  It works best if a day is planned to arrive at a rest area between 2 and 3 pm, that way a choice of sites is available, otherwise you are picking the best of a bad bunch.

Friday  20th June
Carnarvon is on the Gasgoyne River, a large agricultural area where all varieties of tropical fruit are grown. It must be a big tourist town, there were 6 caravan parks to choose from. Not a lot to see, a memorial for HMAS Sydney II which was destroyed by enemy fire just off the coast, plus the town boasts of one of the longest jetties, (over a kilometre long) but at $5 to walk it, we just looked, we've already walked a few long jetties for free, why pay to walk this one.

Saturday 21st June
Drove into town to catch Saturday markets before we left, only 3 stalls, kept driving.  Driving and driving, the distances between towns down W.A. Coast are large, nothing much to see, red sand, stumpy shrubby growth and an occasional animal. This has been the norm for a few days now. Have just finished knitting my 5th item, don't know if I'll need to knit once we get down past Geraldtown. Passed the turn off to Denman. Kalbarri and Monkey Mia, I've visited there before and Dons not really interested. We are looking forward to Perth, Fremantle and further south. Civilisation in sight this afternoon, finally green pastures and crops in the ground. It sure was a welcome sight. Another stop over again,  at a rest area on the side of the Murchison River this time. It has started raining, hope it doesn't last too long, not much fun finding a toilet in the rain when it's pitch black.

SUNDAY 22nd June
It rained most of the afternoon and night, was a quiet time listening to the rain and reading in bed.  We have arrived in Geraldton today, a short trip from our overnite stay on the Murchison River.  It was an interesting trip, the land and vegetation changing from dry, arid, red sandy fields, to agricultural fields of oats or barley, green green everywhere as far as you looked, with an occasional bare hillock on the horizon.  It indicated we were approaching civilization and the first town was Binnu, then Northampton and finally a large town - Geraldton.  Found ourselves a caravan park, ditched the caravan and headed into town for lunch and a visit to the Museum (which has been given rave reviews by a lot of fellow travellers).  The Dutch ship Batavia was wrecked off the coast of Geraldton in the 1600's, and this section of the coast is called The Batavia Coast.  Was an interesting museum, although the parent museum in Fremantle boasts to be even better.  Power and TV this afternoon, so I'm taking the opportunity to upload all these journals.  Shall try for a few photos as well
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